Complete guide to spinnaker fittings, simple systems, and handling techniques for cruisers and beginners. Learn to rig and fly your spinnaker with confidence.
The spinnaker is a specialist sail for downwind and reaching that can transform your sailing experience. While calendar photos make it look glamorous, the reality is that it requires proper rigging and technique to handle safely and effectively.
This guide compiles wisdom from three expert sources: Oliver L. Shaw (simple systems for cruisers), Brian Hayes (beginner fundamentals), and Simon Relph (racing setups). Whether you're cruising or learning to race, you'll find the right system here.
What you need on the mast, pole, deck, and inside the boat
5mm braided rope (not 3-strand). Emerges through sheave above genoa halyard.
Approximately 1418mm above mast foot for clipping the spinnaker pole.
Sheave or eye plate below genoa sheave for adjustable pole height control.
A pair of similar fittings to secure pole to mast ring and to guy.
Warning: Avoid cheap nylon clip-on fittings that rely on elasticity - they can fail under load and cause capsizes!
For uphaul/downhaul. Two options:
Pair of fairleads roughly amidships, as far outboard as possible. Ball bearing fairleads are best (R534 or similar).
Strong jam cleats for fairleads, positioned directly between fairlead and crew. Keep 4½" apart to prevent accidental cleating.
Control guy angle when pole is forward on a reach:
Not recommended. World Champion Richard Estaugh states: "Due to the relatively small size of the GP14 spinnaker there is no advantage to be had from sheeting to the transom. We put the fairleads at the widest point in the boat."
Many modern racers have removed aft fairleads entirely.
Options for stowing the sail when not in use:
Bags keep sail drier and useful for storing tools, snacks, etc.
Lead halyard to convenient point with jam cleat:
Tip: Add extra cleat on centreboard casing for crew to hoist in rough conditions.
Simple single line vs. 1:2 purchase for faster hoisting
Just a single length of 5mm braided rope from head of sail → up through sheave above forestay → down inside mast → through sheave at bottom → aft to jam cleat on centreboard case.
Works fine but requires more effort to hoist. Good for beginners and cruising.
Sail goes up at twice the speed that helmsman pulls halyard. Opposite of normal 2:1 purchases.
8mm braided rope runs aft from jam cleat to turning block just ahead of transom
Then forward to near mast, ending in a block (pulling this line pulls the block aft)
5mm halyard from bottom of mast goes through this block, then ties to toestrap plate (or other fixed point)
Result: Pull 8mm line → block moves aft → 5mm halyard pulls at 2x speed!
Alternative locations: Purchase can also be rigged down front of mast or inside mast (consult sailmaker/rigger).
When fully hoisted, head of sail should be a few inches out from mast.
Pro tip: Tie a stopper knot in halyard that distance from sail - just hoist until knot hits sheave!
Two options for attaching halyard to sail:
Control pole height from fixed to fully adjustable
Very simple and reliable
Adequate if enough "give" in shockcord
Not adjustable while sailing
Rope uphaul through sheave below forestay → down inside mast → out at bottom → aft to thwart cleat
Advantage: Rope never stretches, so pole never droops (maintaining sail shape)!
Rope downhaul through bushed hole in deck (forward of mast) → aft to cleat adjacent to uphaul
Optional: Some owners add elastic to keep line taut against mast when not in use. Others prefer no elastic and accept sloppy line.
For even easier adjustment, introduce 2:1 purchase below deck level:
General rule: Pole should be roughly perpendicular to mast, with both clews at same height.
Continuous vs. separate sheets, reaching control systems
Advantages:
Disadvantages:
Preferred by most racers
Advantages:
Disadvantages:
Fine for cruising
Safety Note: Flogging shackle hitting face could cause serious injury including loss of eye. Risk applies to genoa and spinnaker.
When reaching, pole is close to forestay and the angle between guy and pole becomes extremely narrow. This makes pole difficult to control and increases loads. Reaching control systems improve the angle.
Alloy clam cleat with hook, positioned just in front of shrouds on edge of side deck.
How it works:
Pro tip: Mark guy with coloured thread so you can cleat at correct position every time!
Small ball bearing block permanently attached to spinnaker sheets with control line.
Setup:
How it works:
Increasingly popular: Most modern racers prefer twinning lines over reaching hooks. Wouldn't use anything else!
When using continuous sheets, create a stopper to prevent guy paying out too far:
Step-by-step procedure for helm and crew
Practice hoisting when running downwind in a breeze just strong enough to keep boat moving sensibly. Light drifting conditions teach you very little. Aim for moderate, steady wind initially.
Call "Spinnaker up!" or "Hoisting!" clearly. Stand firmly in centre of boat. Begin hoisting while maintaining course downwind.
Stay in middle of boat. Grab pole and attach outer end to windward sheet (guy). This becomes the windward clew.
Hook or clip uphaul/downhaul to centre eyelet on pole. Check it's secure.
Clip inboard end of pole to ring on mast. Ensure secure attachment.
Pull halyard hand-over-hand rapidly until head reaches stopper knot (or few inches from mast). Cleat immediately.
Move to windward side. Play both sheets (much more efficient and more fun!). Keep sail filled and as free as you dare.
Keep the sail as free as you dare. Windward sheet and pole as far to windward as possible. Leeward sheet as free as possible. Constantly test for wind direction changes.
Safe and controlled spinnaker drop procedure
Call "Spinnaker down!" well before mark or course change. Don't rush - give crew time to prepare.
Release inboard end of pole from mast ring first. Keep hold of pole!
Remove hook or clip from pole centre eyelet.
Release pole from guy. Hand pole back to helmsman without dropping it overboard! (and without disturbing helm's teeth!)
Grab both clews and foot of spinnaker. Keep it forward of genoa.
Release jam cleat. Crew lowers sail carefully between foredeck and genoa into bag/bucket/floor.
Adjust centreboard position for next leg before resuming normal position.
Once sail touches water it becomes very heavy and can pull crew overboard. Keep it in boat at all costs.
Hand pole carefully to helmsman. Losing pole overboard = end of downwind legs!
Helm must command drop in good time. Rushing causes mistakes, tangles, and chaos.
Let each person focus on their tasks. Minimize "helpful" suggestions. Trust your crew.
Much of the chaos seen in boats that "drives wives from the water forever and good crews to even more drink than usual" is caused by:
Don't blame the crew for being slow if the fittings are at fault. Both helmsman and crew have their own jobs to do.
New or secondhand - what to look for
Most modern spinnakers from sailmakers regularly manufacturing for GP14s are good buys and will set easily and well.
A good secondhand sail can be an excellent purchase for beginners learning to handle spinnakers.
All-white spinnakers are often made of "Dynac" - a top quality, high-performance product perfect for top-level racing. However, it's brittle and tears easily in the hands of beginners. Consider colored nylon instead for learning.
It's there to be enjoyed. It's a small sail readily handled by female crews or older children. Cruising or racing, it will get you to your destination more quickly and give a new dimension to your sailing.