Championship-winning settings by Richard Estaugh - Multiple GP14 World and National Champion
Precise measurements and controls to get the most out of your GP14 in all conditions
This tuning guide from Speed Sails is designed to help you get the most out of your GP14. Although the following measurements should enable you to set your boat up close to its ideal settings, it is worth bearing in mind that it is only a guide and minor alterations may be required for different boats and helmsmen.
Expert Authority: Richard Estaugh is a multiple-time GP14 World and National Champion. His expertise and championship-proven settings make this guide invaluable for serious racers.
Critical measurements for mast stiffness and pre-bend
The two spreader measurements are spreader length and spreader deflection. Spreader length controls the sideways pressure on the mast and therefore affects the mast's sideways stiffness. Spreader deflection controls the pre-bend in the mast.
Measured from mast side wall to shroud
Straight edge shroud-to-shroud to luff groove
Measured from mast side wall to shroud
Straight edge shroud-to-shroud to luff groove
Note: The deflection measurement is a guide to getting the pre-bend set correctly but may need to be altered slightly (see Pre-Bend section below).
Mast positioning and pre-bend setup
The position to step the mast is obtained by measuring the distance (in a straight line) from the back of the transom, through the transom flap, to the furthest aft bolt in the mast step.
Mark 2 GP14s:
2845mm
Transom to mast step (furthest aft bolt)
Mark 1 Boats:
As far back as possible
In the mast step
Hold the mast about 1/3 to 1/2 out of the gate and attach the shrouds.
To check pre-bend, hold the main halyard tight against the gooseneck. The distance between the mast and the halyard at spreader level is the pre-bend.
Target: About 3/4 inch (19mm) pre-bend
Pre-bend can be altered by angling the spreader tips forward or aft very slightly to get the desired reading.
When you put up the genoa with 400lbs of rig tension and check the pre-bend again, there should be almost no gap between the halyard and the mast (i.e. straight mast).
Adjustable control for different wind conditions
Increasing the rig tension reduces jib luff sag and straightens out the entry to the jib. This makes the jib point higher but less responsive to changes in wind strength and waves and therefore more likely to stall.
The rig tension must be easy to adjust and the best place to locate this control is on the centreboard capping.
< 5 knots
300
lbs
5-10 knots
350
lbs
10-20 knots
400
lbs (Standard)
20+ knots
440
lbs
Caution: Be careful with older boats at 440lbs as this puts a lot of strain on the boat structure.
Masthead to transom measurement
Mast rake is measured from the top of the mast to the top of the transom. It will vary between boats but should be in the specified range.
Acceptable Range:
21'9" - 21'11"
Richard Estaugh's Setting:
21'9½"
Hoist the jib with 400lbs tension
Measure 18 feet to the top of the black band at the gooseneck
Cleat the main halyard in this position
Measure the distance to the top of the transom - this is your mast rake
Tack position, clew height, and fairlead settings
To ensure there is as small a gap as possible between the bottom of the deck and the Genoa, the tack of the Genoa should be as low as possible - i.e. connected directly to the bow plate fitting.
If the rig tension, mast rake and pre-bend are all set correctly, the clew of the Genoa will be approximately 3 inches from the fairlead.
This is true for most makes of boats although occasionally there are exceptions.
These should be set so that if you follow the angle of the genoa sheet through the clew, it almost bisects the angle formed by the clew and foot but sheets slightly more down the leech.
If you do not have through-deck sheeting, the fairlead tracks should be positioned in the middle of the deck.
Medium & Heavy Winds:
Jib pulled in as tightly as possible
As Crew Moves Inboard:
Ease the jib in ½ inch increments so that when sitting in the middle, the genoa is eased approximately 1 inch
Very Little Wind (Crew to Leeward):
Genoa eased to a maximum of 2 inches from bar tight
Above 15 knots:
Move fairlead back one hole on the track to open the upper leech and prevent the slot getting choked
Very windy (20+ knots):
Fairleads can be moved back 2 holes
Kicker, cunningham, outhaul, and halyard tension
The mainsail should only ever be hoisted to the bottom of the black band even though some 'speed bump' creases may be evident along the luff when sailing.
Standard Setting:
Bottom of black band
Light Winds:
Lower approximately ½ inch below the black band
Warning: If the mainsail has been hoisted too much, a crease will be evident running parallel to the mast. This is most easily noticed when sailing downwind.
This is the most critical control when racing.
Very Light Winds:
Just have the slack taken out of the kicker when sailing upwind
As Wind Increases:
Aim to have the top leech telltale on the main flying approximately 80% of the time (i.e. occasionally flicking behind the mainsail)
Downwind this telltale should be flying continuously
Above 15 Knots:
The telltale will fly no matter how much kicker is put on. The kicking strap then becomes a power control:
The cunningham should only be used in a GP14 in 15 knots and above.
In 15+ knot conditions, some cunningham may be used to remove excessive creases in the main luff
Do not remove the creases completely
Do not use the cunningham when sailing downwind
The outhaul should be pulled tight to the black band in all conditions when sailing upwind.
Exception: In very choppy conditions in approximately 10-12 knots, it can be eased up to 1 inch to help power up the mainsail
• Standard reaches: Ease 1½ - 2 inches
• Close spinnaker reach: Left on tight
• Planing 2-sail reach: Can be eased 2½ inches
The outhaul should only be eased ½ inch to keep maximum sail area to the wind.
Halyard, pole height, and sheeting position
A stopper knot should be put into the spinnaker halyard so that when fully hoisted, the head of the spinnaker is about 3 inches from the mast.
3 inches
Head to mast gap when fully hoisted
90% of the time the spinnaker pole should be set so that both the tack and clew are level.
Look at where the spinnaker breaks when eased (top, middle or bottom):
If it starts to curl near the top:
Pole is too high → lower it
If it starts to curl near the bottom:
Pole is too low → raise it
If the wind drops almost completely so that you are struggling to get the spinnaker to fly, dropping the pole a few inches can support the spinnaker and help it to set.
"Due to the relatively small size of the GP14 spinnaker there is no advantage to be had from sheeting to the transom."
Richard Estaugh's Recommendation:
We put the fairleads at the widest point in the boat
400 lbs
21'9" - 21'11"
3/4 inch
2845mm
~3 inches
Most Critical!
We hope that this guide is of use to you. If you have any further queries or problems please do not hesitate to contact Speed Sails.
Guide by Richard Estaugh - Multiple GP14 World & National Champion