GP14 Cruising Guide

Discover the joy of cruising in your GP14. From day sailing to adventurous expeditions - your guide to safe and enjoyable cruising.

Originally designed as a "Family Fourteen" for day sailing and recreation

GP14 Cruising Suitability

The GP14 was originally designed as a "Family Fourteen" for day sailing, with acceptable performance under sail, and the ability to be rowed or used with an outboard motor. It was designed to be reasonably forgiving, suitable for family recreation, and easily towed by a small car.

Best: 2 Adults

Optimal performance and comfort

Comfortable: 3 Adults

With reasonable cruising kit

Family: 2 Adults + 2 Kids

What the boat was designed for

Great Single-Hander

The GP14 is also an excellent single-handed cruiser. See the dedicated single-handing section below for detailed tips and techniques.

Seaworthiness & Capabilities

With sensible handling, good seamanship, and correct reefing decisions, the GP14 is an excellent seaboat and eminently capable of serious day cruising, and occasional more demanding cruises in settled suitable weather conditions.

✓ Excellent for day cruising

Perfect for exploring coastal waters and estuaries

✓ Capable of extended cruises

In settled weather with proper preparation

GP14 Cruising Adventures

Historic Voyages

1959: Single-handed Southend to Calais

1962: Dover to Ostend crossing

1963: Circumnavigation of Isle of Man

1966: Solent to Barfleur, France

1976: Portpatrick to Larne (Scotland to Northern Ireland) - RNLI fundraiser

Various: Circumnavigation of Isle of Mull

The Roger Seal Epic Voyage

"It wasn't until Roger Seal of New Quay, Wales, sailed from Cardiff to New Quay via St. David's Head that people became convinced that the 'floating coffin' was also a good sea boat." — Searson Thompson, doyen of the GP14 Class

This serious open water passage involved either sailing 12 miles offshore round islands (avoiding the infamous Wild Goose Race) or navigating through Jack Sound - within yards of rocks with threatening waters if timing is wrong.

Essential Cruising Equipment

CRITICAL: Excellent Reefing System

A really good reefing system is absolutely essential. You must be able to reef at sea, quickly and easily as well as safely and reliably.

Mainsail Reefing Options:

  • Square-gooseneck roller reefing (original type with decent cylindrical shank)
  • Slab/jiffy reefing (modern, easier at sea, better sail set - all lines permanently rigged to jam cleats near mast)

Headsail Reefing:

Unless using just the standard jib (smaller than modern genoa), headsail roller reefing is essential. You need reefing, not just furling gear (i.e., using a luff spar).

Recommended suppliers:

  • • Rob Helyar: 01993-702608 / robhelyar@hotmail.com
  • • Bartels systems
  • • Aeroluffspars systems

Mainsheet Configuration

Mainsheet setup is now entirely optional. Your personal optimum configuration for cruising may differ from racing arrangements.

Transom Sheeting

Allows facing aft when gybing in following seas

Centre Sheeting

Central control position

Hybrid System

Transom bridle to boom end, then to center (popular for racing)

Mainsheet Jamcleat Warning: Classic dictum - never cleat a mainsheet in a dinghy. If used, extreme caution required. Author's two cruising capsizes occurred when unable to free sheet from cleat quickly enough in vicious gusts.

Masthead Buoyancy (Safety Critical)

With a metal mast, if the boat capsizes the hollow aluminum spar fills with water, causing it to sink and the boat to invert. Masthead buoyancy substantially reduces this risk.

Options:

  • 1
    Wooden mast - Intrinsically buoyant (still available from Collars, ~£60 more than metal)
  • 2
    Crewsaver 9-litre mast float - Purpose-designed inflatable (~£50)
  • 3
    Echomax Inflatable - Combines flotation + radar reflector (20-25m² cross section, ~£100)

Tip: Float left aloft all season becomes porous by end of first season. Lower after each sail for multi-season durability. Use external halyard system for easy deployment when needed.

Cruising Safety Tips

DO: Safe Practices

  • Heave-to when stopping (coiling anchor warp, navigation, photos)
  • Reef early - don't wait until overpowered
  • Always wear lifejackets when cruising
  • Sail cautiously - avoid sitting out hard in a blow
  • Build in safety margin for unexpected gusts or lulls

DON'T: Risky Behaviors

  • Take the same risks acceptable when racing
  • Cleat the mainsheet (or use extreme caution)
  • Sail four adults without careful weight distribution
  • Venture far from help without proper preparation
  • Ignore weather forecasts and tidal information

Key Safety Principle

"A capsize when you are a long way from help and when you have all your kit aboard is far more serious than when racing round the cans with a safety boat in close attendance."

→ Reef instead of sitting out hard in a blow

Single-Handing the GP14

The GP14: A Great Single-Hander

Although best when sailed two-up, the GP14 is also an excellent single-handed cruiser. The main consideration: you have only half the normal crew weight, so expect to shorten sail early.

Real-World Experience:

"In August 2006 (at age 63) I spent three weeks sailing from Anglesey, single-handed throughout, in Force 4-5 winds on most days. I had her planing fairly hard even when heavily reefed. While I found that sort of wind a bit much for single-handing, the club's racing fleet with full crews had a fair number of capsizes, whereas I was successfully avoiding any capsizes." — Oliver L. Shaw

Result: Over the next 10 years, sailed extensively single-handed. Only two capsizes - both when fully crewed!

Continuous Sheets (Optional but Helpful)

Some single-handers use continuous sheets for both headsail and spinnaker. Big advantage: sheet is always within reach on windward side, never out of reach on lee side when you need it most.

Attachment Methods:

  • Standard jib/spinnaker: Bowlines to clew
  • Genoa option 1: Fisherman's knot with sail in middle
  • Genoa option 2: Simple overhand knot through cringle (if diameter matches)

Note: Avoid heavy shackles at clew - flogging sail can cause serious eye injury

Tiller Lines (Essential for Single-Handing)

Tiller lines to temporarily hold the tiller are very useful, and probably essential if you want to set a spinnaker single-handed.

Traditional Method:

Pair of lines secured under deck, one each side. Tie to tiller with clove hitch or slip hitch.

Modern Method (Recommended):

Single shock cord straight across cockpit at tiller height. Lift over tiller end, holds by friction. Far better system!

Tacking Single-Handed

  1. 1 Prepare: Ensure old working sheet is readily to hand for release
  2. 2 Throw new sheet across boat in advance
  3. 3 Release genoa sheet as you put tiller down
  4. 4 Tack slightly less rapidly than racing, but smartly enough to avoid being caught in stays
  5. 5 Handle tiller and move weight across (clear old sheet if through-deck sheeting)
  6. 6 Adjust main if necessary
  7. 7 LAST: Sheet in the genoa (don't attempt too many tasks simultaneously)

Critical: Ensure genoa sheets pay out freely. Even slight friction at fairleads is magnified enormously when sheet bends around shroud and mast. Use good, large, wide-open fairleads (not blocks). Choose soft rope that bends very easily.

Gybing Single-Handed

Technique is essentially same as when fully crewed. Transom sheeting preferred for this maneuver.

  1. 1 Face aft, standing or crouching, legs astride tiller
  2. 2 Point boat exactly dead downwind
  3. 3 Choose your wave or "smooth" to suit sea state
  4. 4 Grab two parts of mainsheet, duck (so head clears boom!)
  5. 5 Smartly pull boom across
  6. 6 Headsail and spinnaker (if flying) can wait until after main is gybed

Advantage when cruising: Great freedom to place gybe to suit wind and sea conditions - no need to place it at specific geographic point like a racing mark.